Nawruz at Parwana

Nawruz (New Day) is celebrated on the Spring Equinox and marks the first day of Afghanistan's New Year. The beginning of a new year brings with it hope of fresh possibility and a spirit of solidarity and optimism.

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Nathan Cutts
Parwana for Afghanistan

On the 5th and 6th of September 2021, Parwana hosted fundraising dinners to galvanise support for those remaining in Afghanistan, in response to the unfolding humanitarian crisis as the country’s established government collapsed.

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Nathan Cutts
Kabuli Palaw

This beautiful and balanced rice is Afghanistan’s national dish. In a time before the convenience of julienne slicers and shop-bought peeled and slivered nuts, kabuli palaw was time-consuming and elaborate to prepare, and was reserved primarily for ceremonial events. These days, although it takes less time to make, it still commands reverence. The delicate blend of spices and a crowning glory of glistening carrot, sultanas and nuts gives kabuli palaw pride of place among Afghan rice dishes.

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RecipeNathan Cutts
Salaateh Afghani

Seasonal vegetables nearly always accompany Afghan meals. In his garden, my grandfather grew tomatoes, cucumbers, citrus and herbs, which would be picked fresh and then finely chopped to make delicate-looking salads. Another favourite is radish, popular for its semi-bitter crunch, which complements many of the flavours infused into Afghan cooking.

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RecipeNathan Cutts
Sambosa

Sambosas are stuffed, deep-fried pastries, popular in Afghanistan and across the subcontinent. When my parents lived in Kabul, Indian street-food vendors (who had been in Afghanistan for many generations since Mughal rule) were renowned for making the best sambosas. They are usually served with chutney sabz, chutney morcheh sorkh or jaan-e-ama yoghurt dip.

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RecipeNathan Cutts
Falooda

This milky rosewater-infused cold dessert is popular in the subcontinent. It is served in a tall glass, with layers of rose syrup, pieces of maghoot jelly, icecream, milk and nuts. In Afghanistan, falooda is sold in small, colourfully decorated ice-cream shops known as shir yakh feroshees.

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RecipeNathan Cutts
Tokhme Banjanromi

This recipe is for traditional Afghan-style breakfast eggs, which are cooked in a sauce of onion, tomato and chilli, absorbing the complementary flavours. As with most Afghan meals, particularly breakfast, fresh naan breads served on the side are essential. Afghan breakfast spreads also typically include shir chai, a traditional milk tea that, with its dairy base, provides a calorie and protein-rich start to the day.

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RecipeNathan Cutts
Dahl

Common throughout Afghanistan and across the subcontinent, dahl is an easy dish to vary – be it in the type of lentils, the spices or the amount of chilli used. We serve dahl at Parwana, and this recipe uses red split lentils for a soft and creamy texture, perfect to eat alongside challaw or a palaw rice dish, or simply with some naan flatbread.

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RecipeNathan Cutts
Kofta Challaw

The kofta, or meatballs, in this dish are made using a combination of lamb and beef. They’re not the round balls usually associated with kofta, but a slightly flat patty shape, which is common in Afghan cuisine. They are cooked in a tomato and onion sauce and traditionally served with challaw rice.

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RecipeNathan Cutts
Lamb Kofta

Chef Farida Ayubi shares her household favourite – these juicy Afghan-style meatballs. Served only on Wednesdays and Thursdays, the meatballs are simmered in a rich tomato and garlic sauce and garnished with fresh coriander.

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RecipeNathan Cutts
The New York Times

“I couldn’t keep myself from repeatedly bending over to inhale the steam rising from the platter, so much so that I started to make my tablemates anxious. To hell with decorum: If someone made a perfume that accurately evoked the rice at Parwana, I would bathe in the stuff.”

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ReviewNathan Cutts
Kabuli Palaw

The test of a well-cooked rice dish is that the grains do not stick together and remain as elongated as possible. Many brides-to-be (and maybe even grooms these days) are judged on their ability to cook this dish well. This recipe is from my mother.

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RecipeNathan Cutts