The New York Times
Zelmai, right, and Farida Ayubi, the chef, fled the war in Afghanistan in 1987 with their five children. David Maurice Smith for The New York Times. Written by Besha Rodell.
“I couldn’t keep myself from repeatedly bending over to inhale the steam rising from the platter, so much so that I started to make my tablemates anxious. To hell with decorum: If someone made a perfume that accurately evoked the rice at Parwana, I would bathe in the stuff. It is best to come with a group, as the servings are large and can easily overwhelm.
You will want to try the banjaan borani, a great puddinglike slump of eggplant cooked in fresh tomatoes and topped with garlic yogurt and mint. Depending on the day of the week, there will be chicken or lamb slow cooked in yogurt and spices, served with a deep-green herb chutney that tastes like photosynthesis splashed with lemon. (You can buy this as an extra to go with your meal, and I wish it also came in jars to take home.)”